Electrical
Everyone needs to read this article before starting your 120v wiring. 
  The electrical part of this was something I did not know a whole lot about. I asked alot of questions especially of my neighbor who happens to be an electrician. The 12v side isn ’t too much of a problem. There are plenty of links that explain alot about wiring batteries and inverters and even solar so you can be self sufficiant. I have included those links in the links page.
   The main thing I can say is to fuse EVERYTHING. Fires are no fun. Another thing is to test all your connections before paneling everything up. I also made a diagram (you can download below). It just allowed me to lay things out before starting to wire it up. The other thing I can think of that should be considered is to keep everything centrally located as best you can. It makes finding problems, should you have any, a bit easier to find in my opinion.
   I will be using 2 deep cycle batteries to power the 12v side of things. The battery box I used I bought from Jazz Sales, it was a bit pricey but it looks really nice. It should hold 2 Group 27 batteries if I chose to use that size. For now I ’ll be using Group 24 batteries. I’m also using a Perko battery switch so I can turn the power off to the interior when not in use. I ’ll use 4awg wire to connect my batteries together (as for now I only have one battery) and I ’ve used 8awg wire to connect to my switch, the fuse block and for the grounds.It is also best to keep your connection to the fuse block as close to the battery as possible, at least within 10 feet. The further away it is, the larger wire you have to use.
   For the 12v side of things I used 14awg wire throughout the trailer. I probably should ’ve used 12awg but I don’t have very many multiple connections and almost all of my circuits (lights, 12v power outlets) are all separate and the distance from the fuse block is not that great so... My fuse block has space enough for 10 fuses and a separate ground block so I was able to run a ground with every hot wire just in case. To me it makes connecting things easier. I also used wire loom to keep things neat and it helps with areas where the wires would rub on something.
  The 120v side of things had me confused and scared to death but electricity does that to me anyway. Fortunately, I had access to two people, both neighbors, one is an electrician, the other an electrical engineer, so I considered myself in good hands for questions. I replaced the 70amp 2 space breaker box that initially came with the trailer with a 100 amp 6 space breaker box and 5, 20 amp breakers which I got at Lowes for around $50.00 for everything. I used 12N/M wire for my 120. It ’s rated at 20 amps and is what is used in most houses. That is what was originally used from the original breaker box to the A/C. I did not use any loom or conduit with this wire and I did not run any of my connections far from the breaker box. Again, all my appliances that I am running, which consists of a refrigerator, microwave (a small 700watt model), a 2 1/2 gallon hot water heater, three extra 120v outlets and the A/C, are all on sperate breakers. The spare outlet that I am putting near the sink will be a ground fault outlet (GFI) just because it near the sink and the plumbing.
  I hope some of this helps. Also, please check some of the links on the links page.
I have decided to go ahead and put up solar panels so I have an entire section about them here.

Click on pictures to enlarge them
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This is the distribution box that came with the trailer. The connection to the tow vehicle runs into this and each connection is distributed to different parts of the trailer, i.e. the exterior lights, brakes, charge wire to the break away battery. I have the charge wire to the main batteries running from here. I also have the exterior lights hooked to the battery and that line runs through the loom but by-passes the distribution box.
This bench seat houses all the electric connections including the 12v fuse block and the breaker box. Eventually it will also house an inverter.
As the line continues, I have installed an overhead light under the gooseneck because I seem to constantly want to check things in the dark and got tired of holding a flashlight in my mouth. It also helps with hitching up.
This is where everything enters or exits the battery box. I have drilled (3) holes on either side for ventilation purposes and have put rubber grommets where the wire enter or leave the box.
Another shot of where the wires enter.
It’s hard to see, but this is the entry point of the power wire from the battery to the fuse block. Again, I ran this 8awg wire through loom. I also used a rubber grommet for this area as well.
The battery box with both batteries. Perko Switch is in the middle and the charge controller for the solar panel is just to the right. They are group 24 batteries.
This is what it looks liked before I put in the Marinco inlet. I cut a piece of 3/4 ” plywood to keep things in the boot box from getting tangled up in the cable. It made it easier to push the cable back thru the access door on the outside of the trailer.
This is what the original set up looked like from the dealer. It’s a 30’, 30amp cable and a small breaker box to power the A/C.
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This is the fuse block. I know it looks like a jumbled mess. You can see the 8awg wire used to connect from the battery to the fuse block.
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This is the breaker box installed next to the fuse block.I have wire going into both sides.
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Main branch of both the 12v and the 110v.
Switch plate for the main interior lights and porch light.
I used alot of cable ties and cable brackets to keep things neat. The wiring has been changed in this area to accomadate 2 halogens and the closet light.
12v outlet slant wall. I have since added a 120v outlet here as well
12v and 110v entering behind the bench seat.
Radio mess, 12v outlet and extra 110v outlet.
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Halogens over bed area installed. Bought these off of Ebay. They are nice an bright and have a nice ambiance. After looking at these at night, I might just install a few more under the bench seat cabinets and under the microwave. They look really nice.
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Slant wall outlets 12v on top, 120v on bottom.
I decided to rewire the closet light and add 2 lights under the microwave and overhead cabinets. This is where 2 switches are going to go to switch the lights on and off.
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I’ve decided to put 2 halogens like the ones in the bed area, under the microwave and overhead cabinets. This is the wiring for those lights.
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This is the overhead cabinet wiring
Back to the Top
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120v outlet back. I got these from the local RV store. They have tabs on them, which are the clear things on the opposite sides that when you torque the screws, the clamp to the wall.
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120v outlet front. The cap next to it goes over the wires to keep them from coming out when in the wall.
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Bad photo but shows the 120v outlet hooked up without the cap.
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Outlet wired with cap over wires. The cap keeps the wires from popping out.
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120v outlet in the wall. This one is in the bed area.
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12v outlet.
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120v and 12v outlets in slant wall by walk-thru door.
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12v outlet mounting plate. I used a piece of rough cedar 1x3 cut to size of a 120v mounting plate and drilled a 1 1/2 hole thru it.
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120v wires for microwave.
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120v wires for fridge.
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Electrical Layout
Click t download
Radio antenna.
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This is what it looks like with the Marinco power inlet installed. No more having to pull the cord through a hole or risking pulling it out of the breaker box.
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This is the outside of the Marinco power inlet. It accepts a 30A female plug. I used my old cable and put one on it. It twist locks onto the inlet and has a weatherproof boot on it.
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