The insulation I used was bought from Home Depot. It’s 1/2” R-Max foam insulation. It was easy to cut to fit in the LQ’s between the beams. It’s r-factor is 3.5 so for Texas climate, it’s adequate. It works well as far as I can tell and it should work better once the paneling goes up. I sealed the insulation to the beams with 2 ” aluminum tape also available at Home Depot.

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I used a box blade to cut the insulation to the size I needed. I then just squeezed the insulation into the space. I did not use any glue to attach it to the wall but I know that some people do. I guess it ’s “owner prerogative” You can see the 2” aluminum tape around the edges where the insulation meets the beams. On the ceiling I had to splice pieces and tape them together to fit. I did not have to insulate the ceiling because it is a fiberglass composite roof but did so anyway. I guess you can never have to much.

Since the flooring is aluminum, it was definitely going to get insulated. I started by peeling the carpet off of the floor and gooseneck area. It came up fairly easily and the parts that didn ’t I just used a wide screwdriver to scrape off. A trick I used to save myself some measuring headaches was to save the carpet, since it came up so nicely, and use it as a template to cut my insulation and my flooring. I did this with both floors. I used the same insulation on the floor and gooseneck and vertical wall that I did on the walls and ceiling. The floor of the gooseneck and the main floor then had 3/8 ”OSB put on top of that. I used 2” #10 flat head sheet metal screws to secure the OSB to the main floor through the floor beams. I then crawled under the trailer and with a cut off tool trimmed the excess screw off and sealed it with RTV.

With the gooseneck floor, I used the the same #10 screws and went through the floor beams except where the steel is for the hitch. That steel is rather thick and would be impossible to drill through much less drive a screw through so I used 1 1/2 ” #10 pan head sheet metal screws though the bottom of the gooseneck floor up into the OSB and trimming off the excess on the top side of the flooring. I extended the floor out a bit and used a 1x3 secured to the vertical wall as a support.

Since the vertical wall had no framing to support insulation, I made my own framing out of 1x2 ’s and secured them to the vertical wall with #10 screws the same way I did with the flooring through the supports on the other side. And, like the flooring, trimmed off the excess screw and sealed it with RTV. I then cut the insulation to size and sealed it with the aluminum tape. Now the trailer is totally insulated top and bottom.