This is the trailer as it appeared on the dealers lot. It is a 26’ Hart Medallion 3 horse slant gooseneck with a 4 foot short wall. We bought it
from a dealer in Canton, Texas called
Sundowner of Texas. These folks are great people to deal with.
I also have pictures of what I have done to the horse compartment as well as the addition of the horse water tank. I also drew up some layouts and believe me they changed quite a bit. I also
did a kind of 3-D version with electrical and plumbing layout as well. Click on
the pictures and you can download the PDF file of those layouts.
We also had the dealer add screen door to the trailer. It’s a bit different than most screen doors.
Click on pictures to enlarge them
Since the horse area came with nothing but the dividers, I installed some pads,
feeders, window screens and a stud divider since we use the first stall for
mostly storage.
Click on pictures to enlarge them
Horse Compartment looking through the walk-thru door.
Screen’s and Feeder’s
The screens came with hardware to mount them. I used their dee rings but opted
for my #10 sheet metal screws. The screens attach to the dee
’s with velcro. They are a bit to small top to bottom for the windows but seem to
work just fine.
The feeders are attached with dee’s that I bought from Tractor Supply and riveted into the divider and the wall.
They are supported by chains and doubled-sided clips and if need be can be
removed.
Pads and Stud Divider
The pads I ordered from Valley Vet Supply. I found they had the least expensive price on them with shipping. I ordered 4
40
” pads and riveted them to the dividers. I used washers with the rivets to give
them a bit more grip on the pad to keep it from pulling out. On this particular
divider though, the pad was a bit to small to be riveted directly to the
divider so I riveted it to a piece of sheet aluminum and riveted that to the
divider. I think I used 1 1/2
” pop rivets with washers.
The stud divider is made from a piece of 4x8x1/2” rubber stall matting attached to the divider with the same dee’s that I used for the feeder’s. I riveted 4 along the back side of the divider and 2 to the head side wall. I
cut the mat to the size I needed which it drags the floor a bit and drilled
holes and used shackles to attach the mat to the dee
’s. This way it is removable if need be. All in all this cost me less than
$100.00 to make and really keeps things from under the horses feet.
The water tank came installed originally in the dressing room. I wanted more
room in the LQ
’s and since there was some dead space that was hard to get to anything in the
tack area, I figured why not move it back there.
I also made some extra tanks from 2, 15 gallon containers because we just kept
running out of water at my endurance rides. That gives us an extra 30 gallons.
I bought the containers from my feed store and all the parts from Home Depot.
They stay in the back of the pick-up and can be transported to be refilled.
Click on pictures to enlarge them
You can see the dead space behind the saddle rack. Perfect spot.
I triple measured the hole for the water fill hatch which if I remember was 3
1/2
” in diameter. I then made a template to cut from. This was a nervous moment. I
used a jigsaw with a metal cutting blade.
The base of the tank. This thing caused me to have to move the saddle rack
forward a bit.
I had to put two 1/2” bolts through the bottom to support the rack you can see the old support behind
the bolts. I didn
’t have to move it too far forward, but the tank base prevented me from using the
old support.
This is the inlet for the tank. I attached 1 1/2” water fill tubing to the water fill and this inlet I had to modify it a bit.
You can also see the breather behind it
On the tank outlet I used a brass 90º attached to the tank and ran 1/2” hose to the outlet which in actually an inlet. confused yet?
This is the outlet for the tank. It is actually an inlet and I have attached a
valve to it to control the flow from the tank. When at shows I attach a
male quick release to this and the other end to a 5’ hose. Turn the valve and wallah... water
The inlet, at top, which is a gravity fill. stick a hose in it and turn the
water on to fill the tank. The outlet is by the wheel well at the bottom. I
attach a hose to this and turn the valve and I have water. It
’s nice to be able to have water at shows when there is no spigot close by. It’s also nice to not have to crawl into the trailer and have to run a hose trough
it to get water. This is much easier
It’s hard to see it behind the saddle rack but it’s in there. There was almost nothing that I could put behind the rack that wasn’t a pain in the butt to get out so this is what I did.
When we bought the trailer, I wanted a screen door for the entry door and asked
the dealer to install one. The entry door is a full size door, not an RV door,
so a conventional screen door would not work, so the dealer, unknown to us,
installed a retractable screen door,
which we actually like much better than a regular screen door. I wish I would’ve thought of this. I did not do the install on this, and if I’d have known how simple it was I would have.
The screen runs along 2 tracks, one at the top of the door, one at the bottom,
and retracts into a housing. It clips onto a clip to keep it closed. Pretty
simple and very effective and it
’s out of the way when you don’t need it.
Click on pictures to enlarge them
The housing for the screen is the long white tube looking thing to the left.You
can see the top track above the door.
This is the clip that holds the screen door closed.
Screen door partially closed.
Screen door closed. It actually blocks out some of the light.
Spare Tank parts. 2” to 1 1/2” fitting, 1 1/2” to 1” bushing and 1” to 3/4” fitting. Not in picture is the 3/4 MPT to garden hose adapter that’s needed to attach the valve.
Container with the parts added.
Close up of spout. It’s the same garden hose spout that I used on the water tank outlet. I had to add
a brass 3/4MPT to garden hose fitting.
Finished tanks. There is an elbow at the top that I can attach a hose to to fill
the tank.
Tank with base. Base is made from 2x4’s with a notch cut out of the ones the tank rest on. They are straped on with
rubber bungies.
