Solar Power
   I have decided that solar power would be in my best interest so I have gone ahead with the installation of my first panel. Eventually there will be more but since I ’m the kind of person that buys a little bit here and there it will be a gradual progress.
   The panel I have is a 20 watt panel and it produces a little over 1 amp of current with full sun. That should be enough for now to at least charge my batteries. My goal is to get at least 3 of these panels on the roof of the trailer. That will be 60 watts total producing over 4 amps of current. Plenty enough to charge batteries and run my fridge. Of course an inverter will be in order to do so and maybe 2-6v batteries instead of 12v. It ’s weatherproof and can actually handle up to quarter size hail according to the specs.
   I made my own brackets to mount the panel on the roof out of 1/8” x 2” aluminum bent to a “z” with 1/4” drilled holes on top and bottom. The frame of the panel is made from “c” channel with a lip so you can slide bolts into. That’s how they are mounted to the brackets. I used all stainless steel or aluminum hardware so rust is not a worry. I had to drill holes into my roof...YIKES, to mount the brackets. Actually, it ’s not a problem if you seal everything up. What I used was recommended from my local RV place. It ’s really neat stuff called DYCO C-10 Flow Seal Caulk. The brackets in the front of the panel are actually mounted into a roof bow with hex head 1 1/4 ” 1/4 SS self tappers. I drilled them in until they were snug. In the back I had no bow to drill into so I used 1 ” 1/4 #20 well nuts with 1 1/4” 1/4 #20  SS bolts. I also tightened these till they were snug.  I then used my sealant and I was not liberal with it at all. I also had to drill a hole for the wires to go into. That ’s 5 holes total... YIKES, but it as the others was sealed very well. I have the wires encased in wire loom and used some brackets with 3M sticky pads on the back to secure the loom down. I routed the wire down into the small closet and out at the top of vertical wall and over to the battery box where I have the charge controller. A charge controller is need to charge your batteries because although the panels are capable of doing so, they cannot regulate the voltage going into the batteries, so a charge controller or regulator is needed. I have some good links about all of this on the links page.
   The charge controller I used is the ASC 12/8E. It’s an 8 amp controller with the option of a load alarm (which I do not have hooked up). I have it mounted in the battery box. I used 12awg wire thoughout the solar system.

Click on pictures to enlarge them
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This is the panel already mounted on the brackets. I have enough room on the roof to mount 3 of these.
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A close up of the mounting bracket.
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Here is one of the holes in the roof with the 1” well nut before being inserted into the hole. They are made of rubber with a nut inside of them.
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The well nut inserted into the hole. When the bolt is tightened the bottomo of the nut expands and gets tight against the bottom of the roof.
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The paneled mounted to the roof and sealed with the sealant.
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Close up of the mounts sealed.
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Here is the cable coming from the panel and going into the roof entry hole. It’s loomed and secure to the roof.
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Loom coming out of the small closet ceiling. It runs down the wall to the exit point of the vertical wall.
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The wire exiting out of the vertical wall.
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Wire going into the battery box.
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This is the charge controller. It has 2 leds on it to tell if the system is functioning.
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Charge controller showing position in the battery box. There will soon be  2 batteries in the box.
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